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IMSHAKN
03-12-08, 05:08 PM
My rear brakes are still squealing after replacing some badly worn pads. It looks to be like maybe there may be a problem with the piston itself because the problem is isolated to the rear drivers side. I'm positive this is the only trouble spot because there are some slight grooves that have formed and the outer pad does not appear to sit right on the caliper after driving it around for a while. When I pulled the old pads, the top part of the pad was much more worn than the bottom part of the pad indicating that the pad is not seating in there properly, which is what I think is going on once again.

So the question is, what could be causing this? :redface:

jjmatheson
03-12-08, 06:40 PM
Stupid question, did you turn the rotors? If you did check to see if the guides move freely, the top guide could be frozen. Are you lubricating the part where the pads slide on the caliper bracket? Make sure that part has not worn out and is keeping the pads from moving freely If so replace the hardware. I hope this makes sense, and I'm not trying to insult your intelligence. Good luck.

IMSHAKN
03-12-08, 06:47 PM
Did not turn the rotors. I usually do not turn rotors with less than 20k on them (Current ones are from Baer with less than 10k on them). I'm going to take the caliper apart again and go through everything throughly. I'm almost wondering if the piston is sticking because I did not have to turn the drivers side piston back into the caliper nearly as much as I had to turn the passenger's side. I will take a look at what you did mention though. The more things to look at, the better.

sesso
03-12-08, 06:50 PM
Thats why they squeek... turn the rotors and it will be gone. your rotors are probably glazed.

IMSHAKN
03-12-08, 06:55 PM
I'll have that done then, though what concerns me most is the way the pad seems to sit in the caliper itself. It's almost as if the metal edge of just the drivers side caliper is sitting much too close to the rotor surface. Should I have the rotors turned on a on-car lathe or take them off and have some shop do them?

jjmatheson
03-12-08, 06:59 PM
Yep, the new pads need to seat with the rotors, and no that makes no difference how far you pushed the piston back as long as the caliper goes back on. The piston is going to come out as soon as you hit the brake pedal.

jjmatheson
03-12-08, 07:01 PM
Well on car lathe is the best, just do what is available to you, Its just the rear brakes.

IMSHAKN
03-12-08, 07:09 PM
Yep, the new pads need to seat with the rotors, and no that makes no difference how far you pushed the piston back as long as the caliper goes back on. The piston is going to come out as soon as you hit the brake pedal.

Only reason why I mentioned that was I have a feeling that maybe the piston is sticking, though I'm not a tech so I can't be sure. I think I'm going to lube the piston up really well and try again. Then I'll probably just have the car dropped off at Berge and have them take a look at it since I get a good discount there. This one is a little outside of my experience. I know how to replace pads, rotors, service calipers, drums, replace calipers and all that good stuff, but the diagnostic end is my weak spot. :redface:

jjmatheson
03-12-08, 07:14 PM
Yeah you cant lube the piston its sealed. If you want help I would be more tha happy to give you a hand just bring it over. I am a tech no worrys. Let me know. Jeremy

sesso
03-12-08, 07:18 PM
If the piston is sticking the piston side will wear faster. take them off and have them cut on a lathe.

jjmatheson
03-12-08, 07:30 PM
I personally would never do that. Rear calipers are not that expensive anyways.

IMSHAKN
03-12-08, 07:39 PM
I might just take you up on that offer, I'll shoot you a PM. I'll leave you a couple pics to see if you can see what I'm talking about, though I realize diagnosing things on the internet can be next to pointless.


This is the passenger side, with normal clearance between caliper and rotor surface.1291



This is the drivers side with what appears to be too little clearance between caliper and rotor. 1292

AZSonicSnake
03-12-08, 07:40 PM
anytime you put on new pads you always wanna start with a fresh surface. and knowing that you had been doing burnouts without a line lock, i know you had to glazing going down.

IMSHAKN
03-13-08, 12:08 AM
Very true Tony. It's been a nagging problem and after this weekend, I finally decided to do something about it. I've just been dreading the install of that damned line lock because it looks like a nice knuckle buster. :yes:

03cobrazzz
03-25-08, 03:17 PM
Very true Tony. It's been a nagging problem and after this weekend, I finally decided to do something about it. I've just been dreading the install of that damned line lock because it looks like a nice knuckle buster. :yes:check your calipperpins for wear mine did and made a grindingnoise on the left rear.i dont think you can turn slotted and drilled rotors