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xsenerg
08-28-09, 03:02 PM
Hey Everyone,

I was wondering if any of you all knew the going rate for a shop to replace a rear amin seal. I have an 89 gt 5spd and they want to charge me $700-$800. I have used these mechanics for a while and they know what they are doing, I just do not know the going rates for this job and it sounds a little high. Anyone know a reputable shop that would cost less in the east valley? I do not have the tools or the time to do it myself. Thanks.

BurnTire
08-28-09, 03:06 PM
I would say a well equipped shop could do it in 4 hours. Tranny has to come out. Replacing the seal is easy when you finally get to it.

xsenerg
08-28-09, 03:18 PM
I would say a well equipped shop could do it in 4 hours. Tranny has to come out. Replacing the seal is easy when you finally get to it.
Thanks burntire, I do not know the average labor rate. Would you please tell me the dollar figure 4 hours equates to. PSR said $522 out the door. Are they reputable? I really trust my mechs, just do not want to pay more than necessary for quality work!

BurnTire
08-28-09, 03:31 PM
Thanks burntire, I do not know the average labor rate. Would you please tell me the dollar figure 4 hours equates to. PSR said $522 out the door. Are they reputable? I really trust my mechs, just do not want to pay more than necessary for quality work!

That sounds reasonable and yes they can get the job done to your standards.

AZSaleen04
08-28-09, 04:23 PM
sent you a message.

AZSonicSnake
08-28-09, 06:03 PM
PSR does good work. i would trust them. and that sounds like a good price honestly....

TorchedMach1
08-28-09, 06:56 PM
You can definitely trust PSR to do a good job for ya!

WildBill
08-29-09, 11:38 AM
Bring it on in. that's an easy fix.
If it's really bad, I can come and get you for a very reasonable fee.
You don't need to let it go though. It can kill your clutch.

IMSHAKN
08-30-09, 02:34 AM
Bring it on in. that's an easy fix.
If it's really bad, I can come and get you for a very reasonable fee.
You don't need to let it go though. It can kill your clutch.

Yeah, that's not fun when that happens... I've been there. Was shocked to see that was one of the main culprits for death of my last clutch. Any job that I don't feel like doing myself I would trust to PSR. And that is a good price FYI with materials and labor.

xsenerg
08-31-09, 11:50 PM
It was not a bad seal but a pcv valve. Issue corrected. I almost passed emissions today. Passed everything except fuel system pressure test? Any ideas? I am still overheating too. It stays in the middle of the gage on the highway at 2200 rpms no problem but in the stop and go city driving it gets hot quick. Also gets hot if a/c is on. There is a 160 stat, fan works great, good flow in radiator, 30 degree drop across radiator. The water pump seems good but pushes 24gpm at 2200+rpm yet only puts out 8gpm at idle to 1000rpm. The lower radiator hose does not have the internal anti collapse spring but it is not getting hot on the highway.One thing I did notice was that after I fill the radiator up (running) to about 2 inches below the mouth of the radiator, and then turn it off, the coolant rises up and overflows the radiator. Is this normal? Can air in the system cause serious overheating? How do you purge? I know I am asking a lot of questions, but I am anxious to get this thing in shape! Please let me know what you all think. Thanks.

DVSRICK
09-01-09, 06:18 PM
Double check your fins on the radiator and make sure they are open. Also if you think you have an air pocket in the motor get a pressure release cap and after you drive it for a good distance when you park pop the hood and release the pressure but make sure your overflow bottle is full and should only take a few times.

SloSVO
09-03-09, 11:43 AM
you sure the fan is good... with the engine running and at operating temp.. try and stop the fan with a piece of carboard.. if you can stop it .. you need a new fan clutch..